48 hours in Agra

The origins of the city of Agra can be traced back to the days of the Mahabharata, the epic poem of Great India when it was called Agrevana, meaning ‘the edge of the forest’. Agra served as capital for the Mughal Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries and flourished as a centre of art, drawing inspiration from Persian, Islamic, Turkish, Byzantine and Indian styles. Agra’s greatest charm is the Taj Mahal – a magnificent marble mausoleum that epitomises love. Taj Mahal commands the horizon from most parts of the city and its rich history and romance has earned a place on the list of the Seven Wonders of the World. Yet Agra has so many more monuments that tell a rich narrative of the tides and times of Man – here’s how you can take in the city in 48 hours. Set off from Delhi by train (there are two convenient, fast trains every morning, the Shatabdi and the Gatimaan) or by private cab with a train / picnic breakfast en route. Upon arrival in Agra, a quick hotel check-in and freshen up later, you’ll be ready to explore the city. Start your Agra trail with a lesser-known monument, John Hessing’s tomb or the Red Taj. The Red Taj in Agra, is a smaller, red sandstone replica sans inlay and mosaic work which serves as a tomb for a Dutch soldier and trader John William Hessing. It was built by his wife, Ann Hessing, and was inspired by the Taj Mahal, and is a symbol of love commissioned by a woman in memory of her husband. In 1792, the 13-year-old Hessing landed in Ceylon, later joined the Dutch East India Company’s army, fought many battles in India, and eventually died as a part of the Maratha forces defending the Agra Fort against the British. At its entrance, are two Persian inscriptions— an epitaph and a chronogram: the former expresses Ann Hessing’s grief and the latter marks the year of his death. agra_johnhessingtomb11

Book Reviews: Rivers of India

There are books that inspire travel, and travels that inspire books. This blog will be both – some books that inspired travel across India, and some adventures that inspired novels, which perhaps in turn will inspire you to chart your own journeys across India. Keeping with this month’s theme, these books also touch upon the rivers of India, as a backdrop or an inspiration – and their tales are woven around them.

Jungian Journeys through India

For the past 11 years, Travel Scope in partnership with Mindful Journeys – USA have facilitated a most unusual experience – a Jungian encounter with the soul of India’s heartland. Part journeys across India, part explorations of one’s soul, the study tours have been about exploring the archetypal soul of India defined by its mythology and history, as viewed through a Jungian analytical lens. The tour is usually 11-12 days long, takes in 3-4 destinations has individual and group discussions peppered with brief sessions of meditation, yoga and local sightseeing. With Dr Ashok Bedi, a renowned Jungian psychoanalyst who conducts the individual and group sessions, his wife, Usha, who has a rich repertoire of knowledge and witticisms, and Regine Oesch-Aiyer, the once art consultant turned founder of Mindful Journeys – a travel company,  who facilitates the trip, there is an interesting assemblage of personalities on board. The trips alternate between the north and south of India, focus on cultural experiences and allow ample time for lectures and discussions – one can’t think of a better way to get exposure to and learn more about Carl Jung’s philosophy.
As Praveen Langham of Travel Scope India sums it up, “Over the years there have been a lot of repeat guests, who have great regard for Dr. Ashok Bedi and seem to enjoy the rich learning of the Jungian discussions”.
This year, the Jungian group ventured into central India with the Satpura National Park as one of their stopovers. As they exploredSatpura, by jeep, by canoe, on village walks and night safaris, perhaps they learned a little bit more about this diverse country and its multi-faceted soul. Here are some images of Satpura National Park with Carl Jung’s quotes to celebrate our years of journeying together!

Reflections on the Jaipur Literature Festival 2016

Across India, January is increasingly being associated with literature festivals. Delhi, Hyderabad, Mumbai and the state of Gujarat, all celebrate indigenous and international literature – each with their inimical selection of authors and other personalities gracing the stage. In Jaipur, the literature festival started off as a small effort and today, is being touted as ‘the world’s largest free literature event’ – and its history and acclaim made us curious enough to attend it this year. On the foggy morning drive to the pink city – we scanned the festival schedules to decide upon the sessions we’d like to attend, an important stage as with parallel events, one often misses out on more than one would like to. We reached our hotel – the heritage property Narain Niwas Palace, had a quick lunch and headed down the road to Diggi Palace – the potpourri of literary hubbub.
Jama Masjid, Delhi

Down Sacred, Secular Street: Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi

There is a lot to be said about a country, as diverse in its faiths as India, and as tolerant in its attitudes towards each. Today’s political factions and media warmongering may create tensions between India’s many religions; sow the seeds of dissension in the populace, yet the architecture of our cities tells a very different narrative. While taking a cycle-rickshaw or walking down Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi, one can palpably experience the sacred yet secular way of life that is so typical of India.