Eastern India is a region where time seems to move at its own pace, and every street corner has a story to tell. Here, history and heritage gracefully waltz with the dynamic modern present. My journey to the region, this time, was more than just a geographical exploration; it was a pleasant stroll through the chapters that have shaped the identity of Eastern India. It provided me with a greater understanding of the culture that continues to flourish against the backdrop of time.
I have been to Kolkata many times in my years of being in tourism. Yet, the vibrant metropolis never fails to charm me. It is one of the richest cultural capitals of India, with history pulsating with modern vigor. Kolkata is like a chest of wonders – from the iconic Howrah Bridge that whispers tales of the yore to the lively chaos of College Street, where intellect and creativity converge.
The Colonial Charm
Its place in Indian history is special, too – the Bay of Bengal provided a strategic maritime route, and the Hooghly River made it a vital gateway for trade and commerce, connecting the Indian subcontinent with colonies beyond the British Empire. Kolkata’s docks were once hubs of global exchange, linking it to various European powers’ colonial endeavors, including the Dutch and the French. Today, the echoes of this complex colonial past resonate in Kolkata’s architecture, reflecting a multifaceted influence that goes beyond British urban planning and design.
An early morning visit to the riverside Mullick Ghat flower market sets a colorful tone for the day full of exploration. As the city rubs its sleepy eyes and stretches, you sashay through the streets, observing the daily parade from the slumbering suburbs to the River Hooghly.
And from this birthplace of Kolkata’s holy bouquets begins a narrative with greater historical significance – a cradle where the tides of European battles surged in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. Armenian and Portuguese churches and Jewish synagogues help trace a time when Dalhousie Square bore witness to the birth pangs of the British Raj, evolving from the Black Hole era to the City of Palaces. The Writers’ Building, once the East India Company’s HQ, the Governor’s House, and the nearly forgotten Charnock Mausoleum are the architectural sentinels of an empire stretching from Aden to Burma.
While the Park Street cemetery is like the city’s vintage Pinterest board, recounting fables from yesteryears, the Victoria Memorial is akin to a spectacular final act timed perfectly with the empire bidding adieu to their former darling capital in exchange for a glitzier one in Delhi. Venture inside, and you’ll find a Calcutta-themed collection that vividly narrates the city’s spirited antiquities.
The Cultural North
The Northern part of town is like stepping into a living, breathing museum of Bengali culture, where you will find a fusion of Western and native traditions influencing its artistic richness at almost every turn. The Black Town, a term coined in the British era to describe the area where Indian residents, particularly the affluent Bengali elite, predominantly lived, wears the richness of the region’s culture. It also equally reminisces the footsteps of Europeans who left an indelible mark on the city’s landscape.
The colonial-era mansions of Sovabazar exemplify Bengal’s cultural exchange with European traders and settlers. The Sovabazar Rajbari showcases the extravagance of the Bengali aristocracy. The Jain Temple Complex speaks of the opulence brought from far-off lands—mirrors from Persia, ceramic tiles from Japan, and chandeliers from the heart of Europe. The Marble Palace, housing a kaleidoscopic collection of paintings, marble sculptures, and Belgian glass, provides a glimpse into the prolific lifestyle of a Bengali magnate, an art aficionado, who turned his residence into a whimsical treasure trove!
Moving further northward in the city, the Dakshineswar Kali Temple displays the best of Bengali temple architecture with distinctive features such as the ‘navaratna’ style of its nine spires, elaborate terracotta ornamentation depicting Hindu mythology, and the characteristic curved roofs known as ‘chala.’ Adorned with ornate finials or ‘ratna’ atop its towers, this temple constructed in the mid-19th century draws devotees and travelers alike to witness the magnitude of Bengali architectural engineering.
The Creative Corners
Kolkata has long been hailed as the cultural capital of India. And rightly so! From the hallowed halls of the Indian Coffee House, where poets and intellectuals once congregated to discuss politics and philosophy, to the iconic bookstores of College Street, the city has nurtured generations of writers, poets, and thinkers. The Scottish Church College, established by Scottish missionaries in 1830, is another such example. Within this Scottish-meets-colonial architecture lies an academic oasis that has sprouted some of the most influential creative minds. In the intellectual heart of the Bengali Quarter, Jorasanko Thakur Bari is a bastion graced by the presence of the polymath extraordinaire Rabindranath Tagore. His ancestral mansion, a time capsule from the 18th century, is now a museum chronicling the Tagore family’s influence during the Bengali Renaissance, the BrahmoSamaj movement, and India’s Freedom Struggle, along with a chronicle of the artistic and intellectual contributions the Tagores made to Kolkata.
Amidst the pulsating artistic spirit of Kolkata is the neighborhood of Kumartuli, or the Potters’ Market. Even the air in Kumartuli feels creative – skilled craftsmen mold idols using river clay, bamboo, and straw as their artistic arsenal. It is a haven where “kumors” or potters sculpt life-like religious idols that come to life during the city’s numerous festivals. Wandering through the narrow lanes, you can witness these colossal figures taking shape, evolving from humble materials into magnificent deities that will grace the city’s streets during Durga Puja and other celebrations. It’s an orchestration of craftsmanship, tradition, and devotion!
The Spiritual Essence
On the other side of the River Hooghly is Belur Math. Founded in 1899, it is a physical representation of the principles of unity, harmony, and universality espoused by Sri Ramakrishna and Swami Vivekananda. The architecture is a unique blend of Hindu, Islamic, and Christian motifs, spiritual iconographies, and striking elements such as domes, arches, and ornate carvings—all conveying messages of unity, tolerance, and spiritual awakening that the two philosopher-teachers practiced and discoursed.
Contrasting to the picturesque setting of Belur Math, traveling far south to one of Kolkata’s oldest neighborhoods lies the humble abode of Mother Teresa, another influential figure who dedicated her life to serving humanity. Amidst the bustling streets, surrounded by a maze of narrow lanes, in the middle of the sights and sounds of city life, Mother’s House exudes an aura of simplicity and humility. Mother Theresa’s home and the center of her Missionaries of Charity, a beacon of hope and compassion that inspires one to cultivate inner virtues and strive for self-realization on the path of truth and righteousness.
The city of joy, as Kolkata is often referred to, is a bustling metropolis. Yet, there lies a sense of joy that is unmistakably Kolkata’s own. Here, traditions from different regions converge, giving rise to a vibrant mosaic of customs, rituals, and artistic expressions. And it was a delight to experience it once again!
