It has been a while since I returned from my second Kaafila experience. Both my trips were planned around the Kalinjar Fort. Now, you must be wondering where is Kalinjar and what is Kaafila?? Kalinjar Fort sits on the border between Uttar Pradesh (Northern India) and Madhya Pradesh (Central India) of present-day India. You may not have heard about it! If you are presuming Kalinjar to be one more on the long list of Forts and Palaces of India, you will be pleasantly intrigued!!!
Kalinjar is no ordinary place. I say that because not many people visit Kalinjar. Then why did I go to Kalinjar??
Many years ago, my brother Nagesh, the explorer in our family, used to rave about this fort after his first visit. And I never understood why, until I made my first visit two years ago!
Last year, I received an invite from Kaafila Camps to experience Kalinjar Fort. I was excited and readily accepted. Having heard so much about it, I was really looking forward to it. Also because of the man behind Kaafila Camps.
Hashim Tyabji is an alumnus of the TIGER TOPS school of camping. Tiger Tops is known for creating camping experiences in the most remote locations; starting with Chitwan in Nepal, in the late 70’s early 80’s. Carrying forward that spirit, Hashim dared to venture into some of the most unknown territories. He created wildlife lodges in Pench and Satpura at a time when no one had even heard of these places. Kaafila camp, his latest venture aims to take travellers to places that are untravelled, unexplored and lack access to quality accommodation. Hence the concept of Kaafila, which literally means a Caravan Camp that moves from one location to another.
Coming back to story of Kalinjar. The Fort derives its name from word ‘Kala’, that is synonymous with Shiva as the destroyer of time. Kalinjar indeed has a long association with time. It finds references in the Vedas, our ancient scriptures, as a place chosen by sages and saints for meditation, to attain their spiritual quests. In the earliest historical references – as a 11th Century Fort ruled by the Chandela Kings of Central India; Kalinjar witnessed frequent battles, but remained unconquered for most parts. It is perhaps the only Fort that has elements of mysticism, mythology, history, architecture, nature, wilderness and also wildlife. Set on a table top mountain, with stunning views of the landscape around, you can spend a full day exploring the various parts of this Fort; in the company of Hashim Tyabji, founder of Kaafila camps who will keep you enthralled with stories and historical anecdotes. And this is not all. For the birder in you, he is a great source of information, and will help you identify the avian species that you would spot along the way.
So, how do we access Kalinjar??
The first point of access to Kalinjar Fort is the small town of Khajuraho – known for its intricately sculpted temples built, between 900 to 1100 AD, by Chandela Rajputs Kings – the same dynasty who ruled Kalinjar. Khajuraho is connected by flights from Delhi. A quick tour of the temples and a short drive brings you to Sarai at Toria, a beautiful eco-lodge located on the fringes of the Panna National Park.
Your hosts at Sarai at Toria, Raghu and Joanna, come from a background in wildlife conservation and research; having worked at Panna National Park, at a time when it was losing its Tiger population. From a point of extinction of Tigers in 2009 to today, when its population has grown to a sizeable number, Raghu and Joanna have been part of one of the greatest stories of revival of Tigers. Your stay at the Sarai at Toria will bring a deeper understanding of this story. If you would like some advance reading, pick up a copy of “The rise and Fall of the Emerald Tigers” by Raghu Chundawat.
An overnight at the Sarai, an early morning Jeep Safari into the beautiful Panna National Park and a leisurely lunch cooked using organic ingredients – sets the mood to commence your Kaafila adventure. A drive, of approximately 2 hours, through the buffer forests of Panna, past the beautiful pastoral landscaped of central India, brings you to Kaafila’s Kalinjar camp, tucked deep inside a eucalyptus plantation, overlooking a small hill.
With just four tents, which means not more than 8 guests at any given time, Kaafila is a very private and exclusive camping experience. Tents can also be setup for a minimum of 2 participants. The tents are modest in size, enough for two single beds or a queen size bed. Lighting in the tent is using battery operated LED bulbs that lasts through the night. Separate flash lights are also provided, in case the need arises to use them. The interiors are well done with tasteful décor and carpeted floors, with space enough to accommodate two small overnight suitcases.
The wash area and toilet are attached to the tent, separated by a zip up partition. A wash basin and a stand in shower are provided in the wash area. Wash basin has a storage unit with enough water and a dispensing tap. Hot water for shower is on request, at specific times of the day. The shower was my favourite part. Usually, I would avoid having showers when I stay in a camping tent. But in the two days I was there, I had a shower on both the days and I loved it. Toilets are thunder box style, with a unique system for collecting waste – odourless ,100% biodegradable and approved to international standards of camping by NASA.
Meals are mostly at the camp, except lunch. Breakfast is laid out in the open depending on the season and weather permitting. Lunches are picnic style – simple food, carried from camp and served on site during your excursions. Evening starts with drinks around a campfire, followed by dinner inside a compact dining tent that can comfortably accommodate 8 to 10 participants. Conversations with Hashim are most interesting. Run by an efficient team that is well trained, friendly, many of them have been with Hashim for over a decade now.
The Kaafila concept does not subscribe the idea of an ultraluxury experience, so do not expect a Glamour Camp here. Kaafila is an experience in itself, and I guarantee that you will appreciate every small detail that has been taken into account, and thoughtfully provided for in the Camp.
A typical itinerary revolving around the Kalinjar Fort option would look as follows –
Day-1 Arrive Khajuraho. Lunch. Visit the Khajuraho temples. Drive to Panna. Check-Into Sarai at Toria. Dinner and Overnight.
Day-2 In Panna. Morning Jeep Safari into Panna National Park. Lunch. Afternoon drive Kaafila Camp. Check-In. Drinks around camp fire. Dinner and Overnight at Camp.
Day-3 Visit Ajaygarh Fort. Village Walk. Lunch on site. Drinks around camp fire. Dinner and Overnight at Camp.
Day-4 Full day exploration of Kalinjar Fort. Lunch on Site. Drinks around camp fire. Dinner and Overnight at Camp.
Day-5 Drive back to Sarai at Toria. Lunch. Afternoon at leisure. Boat ride on Ken river. Dinner and Overnight.
Day-6 Fly to next destination.
Kaafila also provides exclusive camping experiences at 3 other locations in Central India.
Kuno Palpur: Wildlife, Forts & Pavilions and evocative ruins.
Maikal Hills: Home to the colourful Baiga tribal community.
Chanderi: A town of awash with historic monuments, busy markets, timeless landscapes, and hand-woven textiles
These can also be combined with one another. For example, Kalinjar and Chanderi Camps can be combined with overnights at Sarai at Toria. Kalinjar and Maikal Hills Camps can also be combined with couple of nights at Bandhavgarh National Park.
The Kaafila Camps are seasonal and operate only for four months from the beginning of November till the end of February. Kaafila camps are niche, experiential and immersive, every step of the way is a learning experience here.
Travel Scope has always taken the lead in promoting off beat destinations since we started our operations in 1999. As the world moves towards the “offbeat”, we at Travel Scope are ready to move “Way beyond the beaten path” partnering with Kaafila Camps.
For more information, you can write to me personally on [email protected]
Image Credits: Mohan Narayanaswamy, Kaafila Camps
