The Satpura National Park includes the highest, least explored peaks of central India and harbors a unique range of wildlife, flora and fauna that include species, some of which are only found in the Western Himalayas or the Western Ghats. With a rugged terrain consisting of sandstone peaks, narrow gorges, ravines and dense forests it has of the finest tiger habitats in India.
Material things have their place in our lives. We could enjoy a movie, have a great meal, purchase a new mobile phone or buy new pair of shoes. But with time technology, fashion, food, and everything else changes. The memories of all this lasts until we come across something new and better. But memories of journeys and the people connected with them last for a long time. Sometimes a lifetime, particularly if it relates to nature and wildlife. This has been my personal insight after the two days spent exploring the beautiful forests and wetlands of Satpura.
Visiting Satpura is a welcome break from the hurried jeep safaris in the more renowned parks where the sole focus is to look for a “Streak of Tigers”. At Satpura you have many OPTIONS to explore the jungles available to you. The option of doing a Jeep Safari, a Walking Safari, or a Canoe Ride on the backwaters of Denwa.
What makes Satpura Tiger Reserve so special? The fact that it’s a Tiger Reserve but we are not actually going there to see Tigers. The fact that it’s located on the edges of a very large water body which makes access to the park a bit different compared to the usual jeep transfers and the queues that await you at the entrance of some the more renowned Parks, where getting your identity checked could be like going through an immigration check at airports.
A quick cup of tea and we were off to the boat jetty on a short GYPSY ride. Gypsies are the 4X4 vehicles commonly used in India for wildlife explorations. Once we arrived at the boat jetty it took us all of five minutes to get our entry permit and before we boarded our motor boat for another short crossing to the entrance of the Park. At the Park entrance it took us only a couple minutes before we were seated in our jeeps and started off on our safari.
Our naturalist for the day was David Raju. David has spent his childhood catching frogs, climbing trees and feeding birds. He used to catch grasshoppers and put them in match boxes, and climb trees to feed chicks. He went on to finish a degree in English literature where his teachers taught him Shakespeare in Malayalam. Yes, ask him about all that and he will tell you in detail. But nature had different things in store for him as he trained to become a naturalist and found a job with an eco-lodge in Kerala, before he underwent rigorous training with a renowned organization. As the head naturalist at Forsyth’s Lodge, he now heads a team of two other young naturalists – Surya and Varun. There is a sense of camaraderie and it is amusing to see all the ribbing when one of them had a great day in the Park.
Its unfair to list what one can see in a Park because it could raise your expectations. Also, spotting wildlife in the jungle depends on the day. Sometimes the jungle is literally sleeping and at times it’s hyperactive. But our day at Satpura was abuzz with activity. A baby bear hugging the mama bear in a perfect BEAR HUG. If you are called a SLOTH, there is a reason. The mother and baby were in no mood to wake up.
Next was a crested serpent eagle sitting on a tree stump. We had a great spotters in David and our guide from the forest department. The next thing we saw was the MOTTLED WOOD OWL. As per David we were really lucky to see this bird, and not just one but three and all in one place. The icing was a “murder of Crows” chasing away one of them. It was fascinating and I couldn’t resist asking David to take us back to the same spot once again to see those owls.
While we saw a variety of birds and other animals, I am listing those that added to the thrill of being in the Satpura jungles. The next sighting though was from a distance but again something rare. This time it was a female leopard and her two cubs. But before we could get up close they had moved. However the alarm calls didn’t stop. This confirmed the presence of a male leopard very close though we did not sight him. As per David “he was a shy one who didn’t believe in the show business”. But the frantic alarm calls of the Langur (black faced monkey) and the Cheetal (spotted dear) continued. This was one of most fulfilling jungle safaris to date.
After brunch we headed back to the boat jetty, this time for an afternoon canoe ride on the backwaters of Denwa river. It was one of the most relaxing experiences. Relaxing for me as my friend Jhampan and a forest department guide were rowing the canoe, while the other canoe was being rowed by our naturalist David and another guide from the department. The third occupant in the other canoe was my daughter Mohini who was taking a break from school, with just a month left before she takes on her final examinations of grade 10 – an important milestone in a student’s life in India. It was a great way to unwind, with classes in the jungles learning about nature and wildlife from two experts – our Naturalist David and my friend Jhampan. This trip was a long time wish for me to travel with my friend Aniruddha Mukherjee (known to friends as Jhampan).
Jhampan is a conservationist and wildlife researcher who has undertaken several research projects, and explores the Indian jungles for his research work. He also shares his extensive knowledge and experience with groups of travellers that he escorts from time to time through India, especially to wildlife destinations.
Here is an idea for parents: bring your children to Satpura and starve them of CYBERWORLD, but feed them on SUMPTUOUS doses of nature, wildlife, and life in the jungles. This is education at its best. In her own words, Mohini said she loved Satpura so much because there was NO INTERNET. Now that’s transformation even if it was temporary because the moment the signals were back, both of us couldn’t take our eyes of the devices.
Forsyth’s Lodge is the perfect place to stay in Satpura and explore its jungles. Don’t expect the frills of star hotels. But I can assure you that the earthy comfortable accommodation, tasty food, and the living among simple folk will make you forget everything and immerse you in a world that is so different to what we are all used to.
Before I close, I must add that Central India is a treasure of monuments, sites, and some of the most beautiful jungles of India. These jungles are also home to a variety of trees and plants that have been documented by Pradip Kishan in his latest book – Jungle trees of Central India. He has also documented “the trees of Delhi”.
Some of the destinations to explore in Central India are Khajuraho, Orccha, Gwalior, Bhopal, Sanchi, Bhojpur, Indore, Mandu, Omkareshwar, and Maheshwar. The wildlife parks include Panna, Satpura, Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench, Tadoba. Travellers can also connect from Central India into Gujarat, or continue to the West to explore the cave paintings and Murals of Ajanta and the beautiful temples of Ellora.
